Rear Dampers - Excel
2 posters
Page 1 of 1
Rear Dampers - Excel
WHEN WORKING WITH SPRINGS BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL OF THE RELEASING THE STORED ENERGY OF THE COMPRESSED SPRING. SUDDEN RELEASE MUST BE AVOIDED.
First ensure the car is well supported.
I use axel stands placed at points desigen to carry load.
For the rear I use one at the point the lower wish bones meet under the diff.
There is a rubber gromit on the leading edge on the lower wishbone that once removed will allow access to the inner head of the bolt through the bottom of the damper
Use spring compressors to take the load off damper. Be extremelt careful with the spring as there is a large amount of stored energy looking to be released.
The top retaining has two nuts. The retaining nut will be the hardest to remove as it cleans the threads on removal. It is a little difficult and cramped to access. Removal of these two nuts will take about 1/4 turns with a spanner until only finger tight. It will also be necessary to hold the damper outer sleave with mole grips as this will rotate with the upper retaining nuts.
With the upper nuts removed and ensuring the spring is not under tennsion on the damper the lower bolt can be removed and the damper and spring dropped away.
New and old damper together
The spring can be cleaned if required (either sand blasted or chemical clean before paint).
I used a phosphoric acid solution. This converts the rust (Ferric oxide) to Ferrous Phosphate which forms a very insoluble and solid base for priming.
Once painted the springs can be compressed, again be very careful with the compressors, to a length of aboy 9 3/4". Then slide the new damper through the spring and locate at the top. Makeing sure the rubber bushes are located correctly. The lower bolt can then be secured before releasing the tension on the spring.
Then apply platers ans salve to hands.
Have beer and gert ready to......
Start the front.
A schematic of where bolts, washers and gromits should be.
First ensure the car is well supported.
I use axel stands placed at points desigen to carry load.
For the rear I use one at the point the lower wish bones meet under the diff.
There is a rubber gromit on the leading edge on the lower wishbone that once removed will allow access to the inner head of the bolt through the bottom of the damper
Use spring compressors to take the load off damper. Be extremelt careful with the spring as there is a large amount of stored energy looking to be released.
The top retaining has two nuts. The retaining nut will be the hardest to remove as it cleans the threads on removal. It is a little difficult and cramped to access. Removal of these two nuts will take about 1/4 turns with a spanner until only finger tight. It will also be necessary to hold the damper outer sleave with mole grips as this will rotate with the upper retaining nuts.
With the upper nuts removed and ensuring the spring is not under tennsion on the damper the lower bolt can be removed and the damper and spring dropped away.
New and old damper together
The spring can be cleaned if required (either sand blasted or chemical clean before paint).
I used a phosphoric acid solution. This converts the rust (Ferric oxide) to Ferrous Phosphate which forms a very insoluble and solid base for priming.
Once painted the springs can be compressed, again be very careful with the compressors, to a length of aboy 9 3/4". Then slide the new damper through the spring and locate at the top. Makeing sure the rubber bushes are located correctly. The lower bolt can then be secured before releasing the tension on the spring.
Then apply platers ans salve to hands.
Have beer and gert ready to......
Start the front.
A schematic of where bolts, washers and gromits should be.
dpr59- Number of posts : 143
Location : Seaton Carew - Hartlepool
Registration date : 2008-07-18
Re:
Well done ... these how to guides are exactly the type of things that we like to promote on the forum as it will act as invaluable for someone else doing the same or similar. Thank you for taking the time and uploading ...
Also must say those new dampers certainly look the part and much nicer than the old originals ...
Also must say those new dampers certainly look the part and much nicer than the old originals ...
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
|
|